Watch that Small Print

Everything outdoors is white, so the sight of colourful flowers pictured on seed packets raises the spirits with dreams of a colourful garden. Like any package, the front sells the product while the reverse contains the information, and it’s similar on most seed packets, but it’s usually in small print.

The back of the package contains the instructions to ensure that colourful garden is achieved. Some are brief and others extensive, but I’ve a feeling not everyone reads them because the question I often hear around this time of year is “Can I start my seeds now?”

With exceptions, in most cases it’s far too early now. It usually states something like start seeds indoors six weeks before the last frost. In this area, a final frost is around mid May, although the May 24 weekend is a safer bet, so counting back from that date means don’t start those seeds until late March. I know, some of us simply can’t wait.

The timing for planting seeds directly in the garden should also be included. Other information, depending on the plant, will note how deep to plant the seeds, or whether they should be covered or not. Germination temperature is also important. If your indoor planting place is too cool, the seeds may not sprout, even though you stare at them daily — as we do, searching for any sight of a green speck.

It might say certain seeds need stratification, that is, to be subjected to a warm or cold temperature for a spell to simulate what they would go through naturally when sown outdoors. Some need warmth to trick them into thinking it’s spring and others need to be chilled as they would in the garden during winter. This why many gardeners like winter sowing outdoors in plastic containers.

Some types of seed need to be soaked in water to weaken the outer husk to improve germination, while others need to be scarified, that is, the coating must be damaged or weakened to allow the root to emerge.

Within the fine print, there might be a date by which the seed should be sown before it’s no longer viable. If you have old packs around and that info isn’t there, you could try the baggy method to determine if the seed is still good. This means placing the seeds on a wet paper towel inside a sealed plastic bag. They can then be transferred to a pot after they’ve germinated.

Also included should be directions on where to plant relative to sun or shade that will produce best results. The seed packet might be lacking in information, and many don’t when found at a swap or passed on from a friend, so ideally, if the botanical name of the plant is listed, it will help you find more information. Now, order those seed!

Fake Flowers

 While gazing at the gorgeous images displayed in seed catalogues, you might be wondering, have I seen that plant before, and is that a new colour? We always assumed catalogues had accurate representations of plants, and those of reputable suppliers always do. However, the world is changing and especially the online world where fact checkers, even for plants are lacking.

In the early days gardeners relied on drawings and descriptions of the material in catalogues. Even Group of Seven artist J.E.H. MacDonald, designed many catalogue covers for Sheridan Nurseries. Photography eventually became the norm, first black and white then colour. These images depicted plants in an actual garden before it became easier to produce better ones under lighting in a studio.

There, images could be more easily adjusted to ensure the colours matched the real plant. I picture ex fashion photographers using their skills to show flowers in their best light where you might hear them cajoling poor plants with “Stretch that stem, unfold that petal, tint that pink, more stamen, more stamen. Work with me, work with me. Come on pansy — show me a pout.” 

It’s hard to know what’s genuine now when nefarious vendors online have realized there’s a huge market of gardeners waiting to be tempted by new plants in never-before-seen colours. First it was editing software which made it easy to generate images, and strange new ones appeared. Now we’re dealing with artificial intelligence that can conjure up anything a creator desires.

We’ve long been awaiting a truly blue rose. With only a few clicks, it’s easy to produce an image of a blue rose with yellow polka dots or pink stripes, or any combination. And the same goes for vegetables that can be made to appear larger, taller, and produce amazing crops. Stick these images on social media with a thrilling description of a revolutionary new plant plus a link to where to send your money — click, click.

Seasoned gardeners might not be easily fooled, even though some probably are. I know I’ve been tempted. Beginners can’t be expected to recognize flowers as obviously fake when they’ve only recently discovered there are thousands of plants in a rainbow of colours to choose from. Of daylilies alone, there are over 80,000 registered varieties in vibrant colours and diverse shapes. So why not a rainbow rose?

It might not be easy to determine the legitimacy of a company, but all plants have, or should have, a genuine botanical name listed somewhere. But what copywriter wants to clog up advertising text with challenging words when a catchy new name attached to an AI image will produce instant clicks. It can give anyone a headache trying to remember the Latin names of all the plants in their garden but knowing that a plant should have a legitimate one will help avoid those budget breaking clicks. 

That’s the plants. Don’t get me started on the products that claim to produce plants even more productive or floriferous. Buyer beware — everywhere. Check your facts — click, click.

Gnomes on the Loam

 Okay, hands up. Who owns one? I have one. I call him Gneville. He hangs out on the shady side of the garden and he’s only visible for a few weeks in spring after the snow melts, then he vanishes into the foliage for summer. If I didn’t point him out, or introduce him, you wouldn’t know he was there. Gneville is a gnome, of course, a solid concrete gnome standing just short of knee height. I do talk to him occasionally, but he never answers.

I’m not fond of items in the garden that don’t grow, and Gneville sure doesn’t. However, garden gnomes might be on a revival after the Lord of the Rings prequel arrived on screens last summer. I don’t think gnomes were featured, but there were dwarves — close enough, I say, as they’re often confused. 

Nevertheless, garden gnomes have always been popular, and since this area has strong cultural association with Germany, it’s important to remember that the first garden gnome (der Gartenzwerg) was made in Graeferoda, Thuringia, Germany in the early 1800's.

Gnomes were first described by Swiss alchemist Paracelsus during the Renaissance period as magical creatures who didn’t like to mix with humans. Whatever the origin, each country has a name for these mythical beings. In England, they’ve been referred to as Nains or Hobs. Hobs? Wait a minute. What does that make me?

Mythical or not, latter day garden gnomes have been on the move. They quickly spread throughout Europe, arriving in England in 1840 at the estate of Sir Charles Isham, the 10th Baronet of Lamport Hall where they acquired the gnome moniker. Only one of the original batch has survived. Nicknamed Lampy, he’s on display and insured for £1 million.

They certainly became popular in the UK. In fact, Ann Atkin, of West Putford in Devon had a world record collection of 2,042 friendly garden gnomes. Then after forty years of gnome collecting, Anne decided in 2021 to close her reserve. After a winter in storage, they are now on display again entertaining summer visitors at Merry Harriers Garden Centre in the village of Woolsery. With a name and address that could have come out of Tolkien’s Middle Earth, they must feel right at home.

In European mythology, gnomes are described as hard working and responsible, but this bunch can be seen snoozing, aimlessly riding farm animals, and indulging in all manner of activities, as gnomes do. There’s even a section for sporty ones called the Gnome Run. Like Lampy, the value has risen for rare garden gnomes and collectors will pay plenty, especially if they’re the old iron or terra-cotta versions.

As part of the landscape in Britain and Germany, rare ones are seen by some as a status symbol, then there are others who go for quantity over quality. A few years ago, I was driving through a village in England when I simply had to stop the car when I spotted a donsy, the collective term for gnomes. Before me was a front yard filled with more gnomes than plants, an impressive sight. And yet they’re not popular everywhere. They were banned from the gardens at the Chelsea Flower Show until the Royal Horticultural Society relented and allowed them for one year only in 2013. Even a pair of royal gnomes made an appearance.

Whether you are a fan of garden gnomes or not (George Harrison welcomed them into his garden and even included them on an album cover), they’re certainly controversial characters, and if they bring the good luck that they’re reputed to, then I’d say every garden needs one. 

Find me on Facebook.

Terrarium Time

It will be weeks before we’re in the garden. That is, those who have a garden. Given all the high-rise condominiums going up, city residents without a backyard will soon outnumber those who do have a patch of green. It’s especially hard for those who are used to having a garden, so why not a mini garden, a terrarium. They can be easier to maintain than trying to keep houseplants alive in an arid home.

I have three or four terrariums on the go at different times. The mini gardens help me endure the long wait for spring to arrive. They range from the size of a lightbulb to as big as a double air fryer. A terrarium is like a small zoo for plants and are ideal for small houseplants that originate in the lower light humidity of a rainforest, not in a toasty home. Once established a terrarium is easy to maintain. 

A typical plant terrarium is a closed eco system. However, if used for cacti or other succulents, then it must remain open to provide more desert-like conditions, otherwise they won’t last long sweating it out in sticky box. Here, I’m focusing on a closed terrarium. 

You can purchase a new one, although most of the ones I see are small, big enough for only a plant or two. My larger one is designed for housing reptiles. The plants are happy and take little care, especially as there’s no need to check every day to see if they need watering. If you have an old aquarium or reptile tank sitting around, it will only need a glass or clear plastic cover that can be opened slightly if necessary to control the humidity. 

The first thing you must do before starting to build yours, whether brand new or not, is to sterilize it, or at least clean it well, which is my lazy approach. Next is soil. Here’s where it can get controversial. Most books, magazines, and YouTube videos will recommend having a layer of gravel below the soil, even adding charcoal. I’ve never done either and I’ve never found it necessary. My terrariums are the happiest with simply a couple of inches or more of a soil-free medium. 

It’s easiest to mix and moisten the soil before placing and that avoids any chance of making it too wet. You can make a few hills and valleys in your mini landscape and add a rock or piece of driftwood to make it more interesting. The soil can be deeper in places depending on the plants you add. Almost any low growing houseplant is suitable, preferably ones that prefer only lower light rather that full sun. If you need colour add varieties of Fittonia, the nerve plant, with their beautiful, bright and colourful veining. 

So, if the fish are floating or Iggy the iguana's been missing for a month, you might as well make good use of that tank. Has the snow melted yet?

The Garden Club

 From The Diary of a Mad Gardener

 January 4    I never would have believed it, but I’m learning Latin. I have to. I dropped by the library to see if any garden books had been returned. Some had, but they were about to be checked out again by Shirl, the garden woman from up the street. She was standing there with a stack under each arm.
    “How did you manage that?” I asked. “Every time I try to find 
a book the garden club gang has scooped them all . . . Hey, wait 
a minute. You aren’t, are you?”
    “Sure am,” she smirked. “I joined up last fall. In fact, I’m the Sergeant at Arms.”
    “Sergeant at Arms,” I said. “But that isn’t fair, Shirl. When 
I tried to join they told me the membership was limited.”
    “Ah,” she smiled. “It is. The Groundling Garden Club is a 
very exclusive club, with distinct advantages.”
    “I can see that,” I said, nodding at the books. 
    “That’s just one of them. We also have the seed exchange and plant swop sown up. Nothing botanical moves in this town without our say so.”
    “So that’s why I always end up with the marigolds. Okay, Shirl, how do I join?” 
    “Easy,” she said. “Beg to be recommended by a member in good standing.”
    “Like you.”
    “Like me.” 
        I begged. “Is that all, then?” 
    “Well,” Shirl replied, “there is the initiation ceremony. 
It’s always a lot of fun—for the established membership.”
    “No problem,” I said. “What’s involved?”
    “Oh,” Shirl said, “I can’t tell you that, but you will have to 
be able to recite the club mission statement in Latin—while blindfolded—and participate in a few exercises.”
    “Blindfolded!” I said. “Exercises? It would be easier to get into the Hell’s Angels.”
    “Probably. We never did make our fresh recruits learn any Latin.”
    “What!”
    “It’s up to you,” Shirl smiled. “But I’d seriously consider it if you want to see a garden book again. Maybe you should renew that dictionary you’re returning.” 

January 5    I renewed the book like Shirl said, and I’ve been working away at the Latin. I’m waiting for a call from her now. She said that for security reasons, the Groundlings’ meetings are held with little advance notice, but I think she’s putting me on. 
I’ve already learned the club motto "Carpe rutila" something about seizing a hoe. All I have to do now is get through the initiation ceremony and I’ll be a Groundling, too, with all the rights and privileges of membership—and books, and seeds. 
It’s kinda exciting, but I admit I’m a bit apprehensive about 
the “other things.” She said when she calls I’m to be ready 
with a trowel and a pair of rubber boots.

January 16    Shirl called and it’s tonight! Tonight, I become 
a member of the Groundling Garden Club. I can hardly wait, although I am feeling a tad anxious about the initiation ceremony. Regardless, I feel I should look my best, so I dug out my old rubber boots from the shed and hosed them down. They were 
in a bit of a mess from the last time I wore them, which was when I waded through a farmyard carrying a pail of garden helper. I did plan to buff them up, too, but when I’d finished washing them off I discovered a hole in the left one, which I suspect accounts for the sock I discovered on the compost heap.
        Instead, I decided to buy new ones. I spoiled myself. I went down to the garden store and fell in love with the finest pair of rubber garden boots on the market. Bright yellow, knee high, with heavy green treads on the bottom that leave an impression of a carrot behind as you walk along. Actually, I had a choice of four vegetables: carrot, leek, pepper, and eggplant. But I went with the carrot to confuse the rabbits. The boots have big, hand sized loops front and back to haul them on with, and there’s even a kind of holster on the side where you can stick your trowel—amazing! 
        I’d say I’m ready to become a Groundling.

January 17    I did it! I am now a probationary member of 
the Groundlings Garden Club, entitled to almost all the rights 
and privileges of membership. Except I’m no longer so sure I 
want to be a member.
        The initiation process was tough, and involved some tests 
that might seem bizarre to the average person; however, I passed with honours. I feel proud that I was able to show them what a committed gardener I am, although there were a couple of difficult moments, and I’m still feeling bad about my new boots. Yes, I’ve been having my doubts about joining the Groundlings Garden Club. They began after we left the meeting.
        On the way home Shirl and I stopped for coffee, and to celebrate my acceptance she bought me a donut. As we ate, 
I asked her how things went with her initiation ceremony. “Oh,” she said, “They waived it for me. I was able to join through the valued applicant process.”
    “Huh!” I said, “A valued applicant process?”
    “That’s what they called it. Actually, it was just good timing. Their old slide projector had recently gone super nova and fried President Bob’s collection of rare weed pictures. They were so desperate that when I offered to donate the one I’ve had sitting in the back of the closet for years, they couldn’t wait to sign me up. The members were so grateful they offered me the presidency. Instead, I agreed to accept the Sergeant at Arms position, providing I was allowed to toughen up the initiation process. 
You were the first to go through the new version.”
    “I don’t believe it,” I said. “Forty members and I’m the only 
one that’s gone through a gruelling initiation. I thought I was joining a select group of gardeners, and now I find out I could have been in for the price of an old slide projector. I have one 
in the back of the closet, too, you know.” 
    “Yes, but does it have a spare bulb?” 
        I don’t think it has any bulb, but I didn’t tell Shirl that. I told her I was disappointed and would be thinking seriously about withdrawing my application. “Whatever you like,” she went on, “but remember, you’re sworn to secrecy. One word about the initiation ceremony and you’re out.”
        After that exchange, I came home and sat in my plant room 
to contemplate the situation. After about half an hour I heard the timer click, then I saw the light: The Groundling Garden Club is corrupt and the whole bunch of them should be impeached.

January 18    I’ve decided. I’m definitely not going to join 
the garden club. I might need library books but I don’t need the Groundlings with their silly initiations and their dumb secret greeting—Secret! I’ve been using it for years—bow slightly, place palms of both hands on small of back, straighten up, and groan.
        As for the initiation, I showed them all right, even if I did experience a little anxiety at first. But only because Shirl relieved me of my brand-new rubber boots as soon I arrived at the meeting. I did feel kinda silly when they blindfolded me and made me stand in a big planter while all the members marched around me chanting Latin. But after ten minutes of that they stopped chanting and began firing garden questions at me; they couldn’t stump me. 
I answered every one correctly.
        After that they put me through the big compost test. I was required to positively identify a number of organic materials by each one’s fragrance. One after another a trowelful was held up 
for me to sniff. I must admit, I was impressive. There were gasps of astonishment as I accurately named each one. I gasped a couple of times myself, too, when I sniffed too hard, but I nailed every single one—peat moss, leaf mold, grass clippings, sawdust, and 
a complete line of barnyard gaspers.
        When I reached the last one the room fell silent as I took my final sniff. Without a doubt it was horse, and I told them so—more gasps. Then a voice from the back called out, “But what kind of horse?” Before speaking, I slowly pulled the blindfold from my eyes and looked around at the expectant faces. The room fell silent, and then I spoke. “Clydesdale,” I said, with authority. 
The crowd went wild.
        I was feeling pretty darn proud of myself at that point, until I pulled on my boots—my brand-new rubber boots—and discovered where they’d been dumping the compost after I’d identified it. And to think that Shirl got in for the price of an old slide projector. I’m calling President Bob today to resign.

Read more of the Mad Gardener

Winter Sowing Soon

I’ll soon be winter sowing, and compared to growing seedlings indoors or under lights, it’s less finicky and costs almost nothing. Winter sowing produces tough, sturdy plants, unlike the weak-kneed specimens grown on a windowsill. You can start anytime over the next couple of months.

Most annuals and familiar perennials, and cool season vegetables can be winter sown, but you won’t have any luck with tender plants or exotic species. A good choice are plants that are referred to as hardy, or come with instructions to direct sow outside in fall or in early spring. These are plants that would normally cast their seed in fall, and then sprout up the moment conditions are right. Sure, in the garden many may be considered weeds, however in my garden they’re more likely to be popular garden plants that I grew the previous year. I look on these as free plants — or grandchildren.

When we grow plants indoors, some seeds come with instructions for special treatment that simulates what they typically experience in their normal outdoor environment. They have to be soaked for a time or scarified, that is, nicking or using sandpaper to wear down the hard husk. Others have to be given a spell in the freezer for the purpose of cold stratification. This freezing and thawing or cool dampness outdoors is what breaks down the tough husk of the seed, allowing it to germinate. To reproduce the same process indoors can be tedious and not always reliable.  Winter sowing takes care of this naturally.

You’ll be pleased to hear there’s no need to go tramping through the snow, but simply plant seeds in jugs and set them on the deck or patio. All you need are a few clear or opaque containers and soil and seeds. Gallon jugs are perfect, and all those windshield washer jugs are fine, just rinse well. Some use two litre water bottles. I really like the large water dispenser bottles. 

First, drill or cut a few small holes in the bottom of the container. This is to allow excess water to drain but not so large that the soil could fall out. If the container has only a very narrow opening, make a couple of extra holes or cuts near the top to allow for air circulation. Next step is to slice open the container about two thirds up on three sides, leaving one side (or a small section if the container is round) to act as a hinge.

Now place soil in the container. Garden soil is fine, but you don’t want to be out digging in the garden at the moment. Most any potting soil will do. Moisten the soil then sow your seed. Cover them as per packet instructions, or if unsure, about the same as the diameter of the seed. Close up the container and tape it shut along the sides but leave the screw cap off. Now all you have to do is set them outdoors. 

If snow buries them, don’t worry. A little snow will fall in and that’s okay too, however, check occasionally to be sure the soil hasn’t dried out. If the weather is especially warm in early spring, remove the tape and open the containers for a while during the day. As the seeds sprout in early spring, you can open them up and leave them open. When the seedlings are large enough they can be planted in the garden.

There, you’re almost gardening already. What a great start to the new year.

Here they come again

 Are you and your houseplants troubled by fungus gnats, those pesky bugs that look like fruit flies, or mini mosquitoes? They come with the territory and your houseplants are their territory, or to be more precise, the soil in which your plants are sitting. If you’ve never been bothered by them, either you’re lucky, or all you grow are cactus and other desert plants — we’ll get to that later.

Fungus gnats are not a threat to animals or children, but they can seriously upset an adult. You’ll know you have them when they rise to greet you as you approach your plants, and they’ll head for your nose because after damp soil they have a fondness for the carbon dioxide you’re emitting. Fruit flies, however, are attracted to fruit rather than soil. Leave a grape on the kitchen counter too long and fruit flies are soon rolling it out the door. Their bodies are orange or brown and a little plumper than the gnats.

The only function of a fungus gnat is to mate and then lay tiny eggs on the soil of houseplants. Adults live about seven to ten days and deposit eggs on the moist soil surface or in soil cracks. Females lay from 100 to 300 eggs in batches of 2 to 30. Eggs hatch in four to six days; larvae feed for 12 to 14 days. The pupal stage is about five to six days. So as fast as you wipe out one batch, there’s another group hatching. The gnats don’t live long. After a week or so it’s off to the undertaker but then new ones arrive and it becomes an endless cycle — unless you take action.

Since you take loving care of your plants and never forget to water them, you’re providing perfect conditions to support them. They love that damp soil full of organic matter, which is why fungus gnats aren’t attracted to the sandy cactus soil of succulents. 

Soaking the soil with a variety of solutions is often suggested, although some can be just as toxic to the user. A safe one is mosquito dunks, which contain BTI, a type of bacteria that kills mosquito larvae, and it is effective on the fungus gnat larvae.

Other advice will recommend you let the plants dry out as much as you dare between waterings, at the same time fluffing up the soil surface with a fork, allowing it to dry quickly. This makes the environment uninhabitable for eggs and larvae. That’s fine if you only own one houseplant, otherwise the task becomes tedious and time consuming. Watering only from the bottom, however, can also help.

An easier solution that I’ve found effective is to add a layer of grit or fine gravel to the soil surface. This simulates a desert, and acts as a barrier to the egg-layers. It’s an attractive mineral mulch. Add a yellow sticky trap to catch the frequent fliers and that usually takes care of fungus gnats. You might even catch a few fruit flies too.

You probably don’t need to know this

Here’s a little trivia to share, however, it might only elicit a few murmurs of huh, okay, or how about that — if you’re lucky. The only occasion when it might be worth repeating is when a conversation has stalled and is almost beyond recovery. It might help if there’s an amaryllis handy, preferably in bloom, or at least sprouting leaves.

It’s then you could pipe up and say, "Although we might call them amaryllis, the correct name is Hippeastrum, a genus of plants from South America.” Right, you needn’t have bothered because few give a hoot about the botanical nomenclature of plants. Botanists do, although they don’t always agree. They long debated whether the ones we know and love belong in the genus Hippeastrum, a group of plants native to South America, or should they be classed as Amaryllis belladonna, a plant from southern Africa?

The argument went on until 1987 when the 14th International Botanical Congress decided our seasonal houseplant was indeed from the genus Hippeastrum. Fortunately, they agreed amaryllis would be a “conserved name”, meaning it was okay to continue calling it what we always have done.

Regardless, these plants that brighten our homes as days shorten are all the result of hybridisation of Hippeastrum species from Central and South America. They’re selected and bred for flower size and ease of forcing in a gorgeous range of colours that continues to expand.

As for Amaryllis belladonna, the one that caused all the confusion, it’s a plant that you’d more likely see growing outdoors. In more temperate regions around the world, it’s become naturalized. One of the common names for it is naked ladies (not the fall crocus), so named, not after the band, but because the flowers bloom before the leaves appear, like the fall crocus. It could be grown in our gardens as a summer flowering bulb, that is if you can find it. 

I’m afraid my suggestion of a garden plant that you can’t easily buy is about as useful as the bit of trivia, so back to our good old amaryllis. You might be unloading one with the groceries right now as they’re currently being sold everywhere. If you also bought a monster garlic or some kind of exotic root vegetable, make sure it’s the amaryllis that goes in a flowerpot, not the soup pot because it is somewhat toxic to humans, but only if you eat a lot. Dogs and cats, however, can become quite ill if they were to chew on a bulb or eat the leaves.

Now that I’ve sorted out the plant that no one was confused about until I brought it up, here’s how to care for it. Some come ready planted with complete instructions, but if you’re starting out with a bare (don’t mention naked) bulb, choose a pot that is slightly larger than the bulb, preferably a heavier one to avoid tipping.

Don't bury the bulb completely in the pot, just two thirds to three quarters deep leaving the shoulders exposed. A specific potting soil isn’t necessary. Place in a warm, sunny location and water sparingly at first as too much can cause rotting. Gradually water more as the leaves and flower bud appear and fertilize every couple of weeks. To prolong blooming, move it to a still bright but slightly cooler location.

Pinch off the blooms as they fade but keep the leaves growing for as long as possible to replenish the bulb. To get it to flower again next winter, sink the pot in the ground outdoors in spring. Cut off the foliage after it dies back, then leave it be until September.

Repot in fresh soil, bring it indoors, repeat the process as above and you can look forward to it blooming a second time — how about that, huh?

A rainforest indoors.

 

 Front opening reptile tank

Given all the high-rise condominiums going up, city residents without a backyard will soon outnumber those who do have a patch of green. It’s especially hard for those who are used to having a garden, so why not a mini garden, a terrarium. They can be easier to maintain than trying to keep houseplants alive in an arid home.

I have three or four terrariums on the go at different times. The mini gardens help me endure the long wait for spring to arrive. They range from the size of a light-bulb to as big as a double air fryer. A terrarium is like a small zoo for plants and are ideal for small houseplants that originate in the lower light humidity of a rain-forest, not in a toasty home. Once established a terrarium is easy to maintain. 

A typical plant terrarium is a closed eco system. However, if used for cacti or other succulents, then it must remain open to provide more desert-like conditions, otherwise they won’t last long sweating it out in sticky box. Here, I’m focusing on a closed terrarium. 

You can purchase a new one, although most of the ones I see are small, big enough for only a plant or two. My larger one is designed for housing reptiles. The plants are happy and take little care, especially as there’s no need to check every day to see if they need watering. If you have an old aquarium or reptile tank sitting around, it will only need a glass or clear plastic cover that can be opened slightly if necessary to control the humidity. 

The first thing you must do before starting to build yours, whether brand new or not, is to sterilize it, or at least clean it well, which is my lazy approach. Next is soil. Here’s where it can get controversial. Most books, magazines, and YouTube videos will recommend having a layer of gravel below the soil, even adding charcoal. I’ve never done either and I’ve never found it necessary. My terrariums are the happiest with simply a couple of inches or more of a soil-free medium. 

It’s easiest to mix and moisten the soil before placing and that avoids any chance of making it too wet. You can make a few hills and valleys in your mini landscape and add a rock or piece of driftwood to make it more interesting. The soil can be deeper in places depending on the plants you add. Almost any low growing houseplant is suitable, but don't mix light-loving flowering plants with ones that prefer shade. If you need colour add varieties of Fittonia, the nerve plant, with their beautiful, bright and colourful veining.

So, if the fish are floating or Iggy the iguana's been missing for a month, you might as well make good use of that tank. Has the snow melted yet?

Note: Shown above is a front opening reptile tank for easy access. 

Halloween Cats

I do like cats

Roses are a lovely plant,
A long-time favourite of my aunt
They flower for her every day
More since uncle passed away

He’s buried in the flowerbed
Since aunt whacked him in the head
It wasn’t just a simple spat
She loved her roses; he loved his cat

Each day aunt would prune and hoe
Each night that cat would boldly go
Tension daily grew and grew
Until one day aunt’s temper blew

With bulging eyes and face all red
She grabbed a shovel from the shed
And swung it like a baseball bat
First at uncle, then the cat

She tenderly laid them to rest
Poor uncle and the furry pest
She buried them real close to home
Against the fence in sandy loam.

Where aunt sometimes now plucks a bloom
And ponders on the victim’s doom
She oft regrets that it were so,
But oh, those roses, how they grow

Yet sadly Aunt had been misled
The hated cat still was not dead
Nine lives it had to haunt her still
No more the roses would they thrill

They grew so well you understand
Fragrant yes, but not so grand
Wafting on the evening air
Stench only of the rotting pair

No more the favourite of my aunt
No rosewater to decant
Just haunting eyes o’er her bed
From a disembodied head

A ghoulish purring in the night
Now wakens aunt in awful fright
Her nightmare roses ooh ooh ow
Are thorn-like claws meow meow

Orange Globes Again

It’s hard to avoid those large, orange globes — you know what I mean. What do they call them — pumpkins? Yes, it’s that time of year and they’re sprouting everywhere, even crowding out election signs. They’re also a big news story — that is the big ones are. It seems there’s a record broken every fall for size and weight.

Besides the challenges of transportation to the weighing arena, there’s clearly a lot more involved in competitive pumpkin growing than just scattering a few seeds in the garden. I have grown pumpkins on occasion, and it was exciting the time I had one climb into a tomato cage. When it bulked up it absorbed the whole cage and became a goofy Halloween display all on its own, a performance artist pumpkin tottering on its three spiky legs with wires growing through its head — sort of a man in the iron mask look.

Yet I'm not competitive enough to dive into record breaking attempts, and besides, I really don’t have the room. My suburban lot isn't large enough to grow something the size of a garden shed, although it does sound almost like a practical idea. Plant it in spring, stop feeding when it reaches the appropriate size, scoop out the inside, then cut in the doors and windows and voila —  an orange garden shed. Not large enough? — I could grow a fresh one each year.

Durability might be an issue though, given how regular pumpkins tend to implode over time if left too long on the porch. I imagine a shed sized one could become its own compost pile overnight, then there’s an awful mess to clean up. I think I’ll stick with regular sized pumpkins — or even miniatures ones. Why not? Down sizing happened with pet dogs. If they get any smaller, we’ll be keeping them in bird cages.

As it happens, I did grow miniature pumpkins this year and I’m pleased with the results. They’re not really pumpkins, but they sure look like pumpkins. They’re just as orange, just as creased, and what’s more, my one plant produced dozens. They’re actually a plant in the nightshade family — same as potatoes and tomatoes. In fact, they've been called mock tomato. They’re also called Ornamental Eggplant, pumpkin bush, and my favourite, pumpkin on a stick. Solanum Integrifolium is the botanical name and it’s native to South East Asia.

It’s cooked there in stir fry dishes, but I'm not planning to eat mine without a little more research, but I am happy to grow it as an interesting ornamental plant. It was easy to grow and could have reached over a meter high if I’d given it a sunnier spot. I bought it as a plant in spring, although it can be grown from seed. I thought it looked interesting and stuck it in an out of the way corner in part shade then forgot about it until I saw golf ball sized pumpkins growing. 

Despite a lack of attention, my plant managed to produce a few dozen fruit. They’ll look perfect in a fall display basket — one with gourds and stuff. Not my thing, really. I think I’ll carve them as Barbie sized ghouls — or Barbie sized garden sheds. 

Choices

 What to do, what to do?

Echinacea pallida

Doug Tallamy, American entomologist, ecologist and conservationist recommends that 70% of plants in a garden should be native species as a food source for pollinating insects. It’s become a popular talking point over the last few years, especially on social media. It’s a worthwhile goal, and I encourage anyone to follow this advice should they wish to do so.

Much of the current concern about pollinators took off after a report from Germany showed a drastic reduction in insects there. This was picked up by the media and made for alarming headlines — dramatic events are more publishable. Yet unlike Europe where almost all land has been modified for human use, findings indicate that large-scale insect declines across North America remain an open question. There are few studies showing an overall decline, although this doesn’t mean there are not areas where this has occurred. 

This raises questions for me about the situation in this area. Prior to a couple of hundred years ago, southern Ontario was heavily forested, then the forests were felled to make way for farmland and much of the natural landscape was lost. Urban growth followed, absorbing swaths of that farmland, then in the decades following World War II, all manner of pesticides became available. They were heavily used in agriculture, by municipalities, and by homeowners.

Verbascum chaixii 'Wedding Candles'

This was a time when green lawns ruled and to ensure they stayed that way, they were sprayed heavily with weedkillers — remember the tanker trucks that roamed neighbourhoods leaving a chemical smell in the air? Thankfully, that ended in 2008 with the Ontario pesticide act.

Prior to about thirty years ago, other than grass, there might have been a small vegetable plot. out back with room for a clothesline. In the front yard, most homes had only what was termed a foundation planting out front, three or four evergreens and limited selection of flowering plants. There were far fewer sources for plants compared to now when big box and grocery stores have become garden centres. Filling the front and back yard with rare and unusual plants would have been seen as radical. This began to change largely due to the Communities in Bloom program starting in 1998, which encouraged front yard plantings, and over the last twenty years interest in growing flowering plants has surged.

Growing vegetables, too, has become hugely popular. However, backyards are still largely a play area for kids and pets, although many trees and shrubs have been added where none grew before. People build gardens for many reasons, and in an urban environment it isn’t easy to recreate a natural ecosystem where plants and insects have developed a complex web of interrelationships, yet those who opted to plant flower gardens with a wide range of plants have done much to support pollinators. Non-native plants might not cater to all species of insects, but they can provide nectar rich flowers for generalist feeders, and native birds and insects will happily feed on both native and non-native plants. It’s the specialist feeders that are most in need of specific plants that support them, like the monarch butterfly that relies on milkweed. However, only a relatively small percentage of insects require specific plants, and each has co-evolved with a colony to suit their needs. A single plant in an urban garden may not be enough to meet their needs (see below).

Hoverfly

Planting any kind of garden is a positive thing when one considers what is being done to the planet, especially so as climate change, pesticide use, and loss of greenbelt continue to threaten pollinating insects on a much bigger scale than a simple garden that has long provided habitat where non existed before. So yes, do avoid using invasive, exotic plants, and certainly add more native species to attract pollinators, even 70%, but don’t be afraid to grow what you love, providing it causes no harm to the environment — know your plants, and your pollinators.

It is worth noting that in the US, where the movement is strongest, pesticide use by home gardeners is still permitted. Eighty-five types of pesticide outlawed in other countries are still allowed there. Add a comment below.

NOT my garden

My garden

 

Rockway Gardens, Kitchener, Ontario.

This is a short piece I wrote for Canadian Gardening magazine some time ago.

In 1928, a strip of wasteland alongside the eastern approach to the city of Kitchener, Ontario, sprouted nothing but scrub and billboards.

Today, it’s Rockway Gardens, a three hectare floral ribbon, created and maintained by the Kitchener Horticultural Society. The gardens are now within a vastly expanded city, a source of civic pride that sees numerous bridal parties waiting in line each weekend in summer for wedding photographs beside vintage fountains or before a low limestone escarpment.

It appears natural, but this impressive rockery, spilling with flowers, was constructed during the depression years with almost 2,000 tonnes of limestone. Designed by prominent English landscape architect, W. J. Jarman, the project provided relief work for the unemployed during difficult times; allowing many to hold onto their homes by contributing labour in lieu of paying property taxes. Work continues at the gardens. Each year, volunteers from the Horticultural Society, whose motto is “community beauty is a civic duty”, contribute to their heritage by planting thousands of bulbs and annuals at Rockway to welcome visitors to the city of Kitchener.

At 270 Simcoe Street North in the city of Oshawa lies another garden developed during the same period. Parkwood, now a national historic site, was the home of Sam McLaughlin, founder of General Motors of Canada. His impressive and imposing mansion is set amid five hectares of gardens designed by a series of prominent landscape architects of the early twentieth century, including W.E. Harries and A.V. Hall, and the Dunington-Grubbs, husband and wife team who were founding members of the Canadian Society of Landscape Architects.

These talented people created delightful garden rooms adorned with beautiful statuary, including the Italian Garden, the Sunken Garden, the Sundial Garden, all linked by paths and hidden nooks to greenhouses where orchids and palms share space with the Japanese Garden and the Greenhouse Tea Room.

The last major development took place in the thirties, when architect John Lyle was commissioned to design a formal garden in the art moderne style, a branch of art deco. Viewed from the terrace, a bridal party posing amid the elegant simplicity of the garden with its string of fountains evokes a beautiful representation of the period.

Pinch that sucker -- or not

They say there’s a sucker born every minute and it sure seems that way on tomato plants, except they’re not suckers, they’re branches. They're the new growth that sprouts at the intersection of a branch and the main stem of a tomato plant, and the long-standing advice has been to remove them by pruning or pinching them out.

To not do so is at your peril because it’s believed suckers steal energy from the plant. At least that’s the belief, except it’s not so. It’s one of those things that’s been done by gardeners forever because someone, somewhere, thought it was a good idea and no one thought to question it.

What is a sucker? On a tree, it refers to those fresh shoots that appear at the base of a tree. On a tomato plant, there are none. What are referred to as suckers are simply secondary branches, and with their leaves they contribute energy to the plant rather than steal it. These secondary branches will also develop flowers and fruit

So why have gardeners been removing them? First, we have to understand the two main types of tomato plants, determinates and indeterminates. Determinates were initially bred for commercial growers. This type grows only to a limited size and the fruit ripens more or less at the same time, making it much easier for mechanical harvesting. When grown as a large-scale commercial crop, determinate plants are not staked or supported, and you can be sure no one roams thousands of acres of fields, pinching off anything in sight that looks like a so-called sucker.

These smaller, bushier plants are suitable for the home gardener with limited space as they can be easily supported if need be with tomato cages, in ground or in a planter, so why bother with pinching off suckers if the commercial growers don’t bother — I’m getting to it . . .

Prior to the development of determinate varieties, most of the plants gardeners were growing in backyards in the old days were indeterminate plants. We still grow them, and many are heirloom varieties. They’re called indeterminates because they don’t stop growing. Tomato plants are vines and will grow that way when allowed, and for as long as conditions are suitable.

Indeterminates are also the type most often grown as hot house tomatoes in commercial greenhouses. There, they are allowed to grow and produce fruit throughout the season, ensuring a continuous supply for the market. In greenhouse production, the lower leaves are sometimes removed, mainly for hygiene purposes as disease can strike where the humidity is highest. Otherwise the vines are allowed to grow naturally and become a jungle of hanging fruit.

In the backyard, however, where the season is shorter, indeterminates won’t reach the size of the greenhouse plants, but they do need serious staking, with a large cage or strong stakes. And this is where the reason for pinching out the “suckers” probably began. With secondary branches shooting off in all directions, there’d be a need for even more support. By restricting the plant to a main stem, it made sense and was much easier to train the plant. Consequently, the habit of sucker pinching took off and it continues today.

If you need to keep your indeterminate plants under control, go ahead and remove any secondary branches that aren’t required, but don’t feel it’s essential to remove them all. Some like to remove lower branches to improve airflow or keep leaves off the soil. Otherwise, the question is, does it really make any difference?

The answer is yes — sort of. If you leave the secondary stems on the plant, you’ll likely harvest far more tomatoes than you would if you removed them, except they might be a tad smaller than the ones from a plant that had the suckers removed.

So there you have it, to pinch or not to pinch the suckers? The choice is yours. You’ll still get tomatoes.

You don’t need a license to grow trilliums

I can’t say the now defunct design of the last Ontario licence plates concerned me particularly, but it was nice to see the trillium featured on them. I also liked the reference to gardening with the statement that Ontario is a place to grow. The trillium has been Ontario's floral emblem since 1937, and as I’m sure everyone knows, that funny little symbol with three points does represent our provincial flower.

The trillium is also the state wildflower of Ohio, but they don’t honour it the way we do in Ontario. During World War I, the Ottawa Horticultural Society suggested the gentle white trillium should be planted on the graves of Canadian soldiers to signify the homeland left behind, however it was never pursued.

I have a trillium flowering in my garden now, despite suggestions circulating that anyone with a trillium must have plucked it from the wild and in doing so broke the law.

I’m happy to report that I have not, nor am I likely to end up in jail or even be arrested. That’s because it is not against the law to pick or remove trilliums from woodland, unless of course the location is private land. With a slow spring this year, trillium blooms are peaking, or may have passed further south, after lighting up the forest floor. With so many in bloom it’s not surprising that someone is tempted to scoop a few blooms, or even dig up the whole plant.

Although not protected by law perhaps they should be, as should all our precious wildflowers. Picking the trillium for its flower causes damage to the leaves and stems that are essential to future growth. Trilliums don’t transplant at all well from a woodland, and besides harming the plants, it removes the enjoyment for others.

Fortunately, you can grow them in your own garden because they can be purchased from many nurseries that specialize in, and propagate, wildflowers. The trillium you most likely see growing everywhere is Trillium grandiflorum, although according to Ontario Parks, there are another four species.  There’s the red trillium, the painted trillium, the drooping trillium (listed as at risk) and the nodding trillium — I’m not sure I’d be able to tell the difference between the drooping and the nodding.

The red trillium is Trillium erectum, and it’s easy to spot when it pops up in the middle of a patch of white ones. It would even be easy to find one in the dark. Unlike the white variety, which has no fragrance, the red one has the delightful fragrance of day-old roadkill, perfectly designed to attract pollinating flies — and another valuable pollinator plant to add to the garden.

Despite being called the red trillium, the flower has a slightly more burgundy look about it. In fact, deep in the forest there have been reports of ones with slight variations in colour, even orange — I’m still looking. The common name for the red trillium is ‘wake robin’, said to have referred initially to the European robin. Both it and our native robin have similar colouring, and I’m only guessing, but as the breast colour of both birds leans toward orange rather than red, maybe an orange trillium was more common a century or so ago.

There is another species of red trillium I’d like to try growing in my garden and that’s Trillium chloropetalum, the giant wake robin, and it’s a beauty, growing as high as forty-five centimetres high (18 inches). Although native to California, it is a zone six plant, making it hardy enough to grow here.

Wait, there are more. About fifty other species of trillium have been recorded, mostly in North America, though generally further south. So, do watch out for any unique species, but no picking. Unlike those old license plates, they’re not collectors’ items.

It’s a Numbers Game

Fertilizer is confusing, and no wonder. Shelves are stacked with more types of fertilizer than supplements in a health food store. All are in brightly coloured packaging adorned with pictures of gorgeous flowering plants and unblemished vegetables. 

There are fertilizers for tomatoes, ones for roses, another for perennials and so on. All you need to do is match the plant to the fertilizer, right? It couldn’t be easier, except if you grow roses, tomatoes, and dozens of other types of plants, you’ll soon have a full shopping cart. The truth is, you could get by with only one type of commercial fertilizer, or even none if it’s for the garden. By using compost and mulch there, you’d still be fertilizing, but as nature does it.

You’ll note packages of fertilizer always have three numbers. These represent the three main nutrients plants require — nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, noted as N-P-K. If the K is throwing you off, that’s because it comes from the scientific term, kalium. These numbers indicate the percentages of each element in the package or bottle. 10-15-10 means it contains 10% nitrogen, 15% phosphorus, and 10% potassium.

You might be wondering why there are so many different proportions listed, and why manufactures can’t agree on those proportions. Next time you’re shopping for fertilizer, ignore the glossy images that were shot in a studio and compare those numbers.

You’ll immediately see they differ from brand to brand even though they’re specified for the same type of plant. I’ve seen brands of fertilizer formulated for tomatoes with the numbers 6-12-12, 4-6-8, 8-24-8, and 18-18-21. No wonder the consumer is confused.

Now you might be wondering how they came up with the numbers in the first place. When plants were first analyzed, it was found they contained different proportions of these three nutrients. It was then assumed that each type of plant required fertilizer in the same proportion, except plants don’t use nutrients the same way at the same time as they’re growing. They take up what they need from the soil when they need it.

It’s much like going to the grocery store when you’re out of milk, butter, or eggs. You buy what you need rather than stuffing the refrigerator. A balanced fertilizer, that is one with equal percentages, say 5-5-5 or 10-10-10, is fine in most situations, but by juggling the numbers manufacturers were able to make their products appear unique. And that’s when marketing with numbers began. But do you really need all that fertilizer? If you’re growing in pots and planters, indoors or out, yes you will need it, as most soil-less mediums have little or no nutrients, unlike real soil.

In the garden it’s a different matter. Remember that middle number, the one representing the phosphorus percentage? The soil in this area began with a limestone base, and as it degraded over time we were left with plenty of phosphorous in the soil. Garden soil doesn’t need any extra. In fact, so much has been added waterways are being polluted by it. 

As for the last number representing potassium, it’s only likely to be deficient in light, sandy soils, not in the typical clay soils we have in our gardens. This leaves nitrogen, the first of the trio. Nitrogen does not stick around in soil, which is why we’re forever fertilizing lawns. By adding compost and mulch, nitrogen and other nutrients are returned to the soil as the organic material is broken down.

Bottom line: If your plants are growing poorly, fertilizer is rarely the solution, and too much can be deadly.Your pots and planters will need it, so use the fertilizer of your choice, ideally, one with a ratio corresponding to 3-1-2 (24-8-16 or 12-4-8, for instance). Also look for additional micro-nutrients that are usually found in the fine print of contents.

Finally, do heed the directions. Like soap powder in the washing machine, more is not better. 

What a spring tonic.

I couldn’t resist those large, papery blooms of ranunculus I saw massed on a rack at the garden centre. The blooms, which resemble a small peony or a large carnation, are so vibrant, and vibrant is not how I’d describe my garden right now. The plant I brought home with its all too perfect to be real flowers is now at home, sitting beside a sunny window. The flowers last for ages, despite looking as delicate as crepe paper and they’re surprisingly tough. This makes them popular as cut flowers for the florist and in a wedding bouquet. They should keep me going until the daffodils and tulips appear. 

Ranunculus, and not ranunculi if there’s more than one, unlike octopuses, are greenhouse reared to satisfy the craving for colour everyone has when there’s not much going on in the garden in early spring, and they do it well. Commercial growers typically plant in fall for flowers to tempt us in late winter or early spring. With luck and TLC, they can be planted out in the garden after last frost and will continue to bloom until the weather heats up.

Like pansies, ranunculi are cool weather plants that dislike warm temperatures and they’ll tend to fade out as summer progresses. In warmer climates they’re as perennial as daffodils, returning each year. Unfortunately, they can’t take our winters and are gone after one season. They can, however, be treated like summer flowering bulbs such as dahlias and gladiolas. The tuberous root that a ranunculus develops can be dug in fall and stored over winter.

If planted in the garden, it would be best to mark the location as any sign of them will be long gone before fall. Planting in a container would make it easier to track them down, and in fact, it would be a better choice. That way you’ll get a close-up of the gorgeous blooms. Remove spent blooms to encourage more buds to pop open.

Besides trying to keep your spring purchase going outdoors, actual tubers can be bought and planted in spring, the same as summer flowering canna or calla lilies. That way they’ll grow through summer and flower in late summer to early fall when days are cooler.

The tubers are odd shaped, resembling a dark bunch of over ripened bananas, or gardener’s grubby fingers, I suppose. That makes it easier to be sure you’re planting them pointing the right way — fingers downwards with a couple of inches (50mm) of soil over them.

To attain the best plants, the larger the tubers the better. Whether in ground or in a container, don’t plant in soil that stays wet. If planted in a container, they will need fertilizing.The ranunculus family is huge, with over 500 species, and it marsh marigolds that will soon be popping up around wetlands anytime now, along with croaking frogs — if spring ever arrives. The Latin name for frog, rana, is where ranunculus got its name because many species grow in damp places.

Ranunculus asiaticus is the one that’s been bred most often to produce the varieties we see with huge flowers. The pot plants may not be labelled, but two common series are Tecolote and Bloomingdale — no connection with our Bloomingdale. Bloomingdale is a dwarf variety while Tecolote has longer stems. Because of its popularity as a cut flower, ever more hybrids are being developed, particularly in Japan.

If you can distract your eyes from the gorgeous flowers, you might find the foliage looks familiar. It looks a lot like parsley, except it can cause intense burning of the mouth and throat if swallowed, so keep them well apart in the garden or kitchen.

Low budget gardening

If you love gardening and it's at the bottom of  the list when it's time to dispense funds from a limited budget that is food, mortgage payments, or phone plans for teenagers, then consider dirt-cheap gardening, or if you prefer, gardening for the frugal. Better still, call it smart in a world where practising the three Rs (reduce, reuse, recycle? is considered a virtue.

Gardening is the ideal place to practice the above. Not only can it save you a tonne of money, but you'll also be helping the planet, and everyone knows it needs all the help it can get.

Begin indoors by extending the life of plastic containers before they reach the blue box. Blue box day is a treasure hunt for all kinds of garden stuff. Those 20-litre water bottles with the bottom cut out make an excellent cloche to protect young plants when there’s a risk of frost.

There are also surprising finds on garbage day such as decorative planters that someone tired of. I see coils of hose that only need a new end. Repair is another R to value. Garden tools are tossed out when downsizing is underway. While out curb shopping, scoop any old snow shovels; the handles are usually in perfect shape and make great replacement handles for the spade you broke trying to lever a rock out of the garden. Afraid of being seen as a scavenger? It’s a way of to survive in parts of the world. Wear a mask if it helps, but don’t stop by a bank on the way home.

Before those garden items make it to the curb, they pass through the garage sale stage. Garage sales are a major source of planters. Even an old suitcase can be filled with flowers — have plants will travel — and I don't know why, but wicker baskets seem to end up in driveways in quantities to rival the vast number of VCRs and vintage stereo systems from the ‘80s. Line the baskets with plastic and you'll have a lovely planter that will do at least a couple of seasons.

Depending on the number of fashionable planters you bring home from the garage sale trip, it can be pricey when you come to fill them with potting soil. Garden soil is fine but it may need lightening for better drainage if it’s clay based. Add sand or perlite to ensure it drains freely. Coir or peat moss will help retain moisture. Rather than peat moss, there is a more environmentally friendly medium produced with wood fibre.

Beyond planters for work in the garden, you will need a spade to dig or shovel the soil, but one trip past the tool racks at the garden centre can be frightening for the new gardener — "You mean I need all that stuff just to grow a few plants?" No. Garden tools are becoming like workshop tools/toys — a different one for every conceivable project or task. You'll get by surprisingly well with a minimum of a spade, a rake, hoe, trowel, and pruners. The spade is important for planting, but regular digging of flower or veggie beds can be reduced by top dressing with compost or leaves and letting the worms do all the work, and compost is usually free from most municipalities.

Plants for your pots or garden are the easiest. Grow your own from seeds or watch for plant swaps. Gardeners are constantly digging and dividing plants or sharing seeds and are eager to see them go to a good home. Remember, too, when buying plants, that small trees and shrubs will eventually grow into big trees and shrubs but will cost much less. Be a real gardener — be patient and be resourceful, and that’s another R.

Buyer Beware

While gazing at the gorgeous images displayed in seed catalogues, you might be wondering, have I seen that plant before, and is that a new colour? We always assumed catalogues had accurate representations of plants, and those of reputable suppliers always do. However, the world is changing and especially the online world where fact checkers, even for plants are lacking. 

In the early days gardeners relied on drawings and descriptions of the material in catalogues. Even Group of Seven artist J.E.H. MacDonald, designed many catalogue covers for Sheridan Nurseries. Photography eventually became the norm, first black and white then colour. These images depicted plants in an actual garden before it became easier to produce better ones under lighting in a studio.

There, images could be more easily adjusted to ensure the colours matched the real plant. I picture ex fashion photographers using their skills to show flowers in their best light where you might hear them cajoling poor plants with “Stretch that stem, unfold that petal, tint that pink, more stamen, more stamen. Work with me, work with me. Come on pansy — show me a pout.”

It’s hard to know what’s genuine now when nefarious vendors online have realized there’s a huge market of gardeners waiting to be tempted by new plants in never-before-seen colours. First it was editing software which made it easy to generate images, and strange new ones appeared. Now we’re dealing with artificial intelligence that can conjure up anything a creator desires.

We’ve long been awaiting a truly blue rose. With only a few clicks, it’s easy to produce an image of a blue rose with yellow polka dots or pink stripes, or any combination. And the same goes for vegetables that can be made to appear larger, taller, and produce amazing crops. Stick these images on social media with a thrilling description of a revolutionary new plant plus a link to where to send your money — click, click.

Seasoned gardeners might not be easily fooled, even though some probably are. I know I’ve been tempted. Beginners can’t be expected to recognise flowers as obviously fake when they’ve only recently discovered there are thousands of plants in a rainbow of colours to choose from. Of daylilies alone, there are over 80,000 registered varieties in vibrant colors and diverse shapes. So why not a rainbow rose?

It might not be easy to determine the legitimacy of a company, but all plants have, or should have, a genuine botanical name listed somewhere. But what copywriter wants to clog up advertising text with challenging words when a catchy new name attached to an AI image will produce instant clicks. It can give anyone a headache trying to remember the Latin names of all the plants in their garden but knowing that a plant should have a legitimate one will help avoid those budget breaking clicks.

That’s the plants. Don’t get me started on the products that claim to produce plants even more productive or floriferous. Buyer beware — everywhere. Buyer beware — click, click.