Planted Picture Frames 2004

I like messing around with plants, in addition to growing them, and I have one “arrangement” that always attracts attention. I got the idea sometime in the late 1980s when I was over at a friend’s place, idly flipping through an old copy of a National Geographic magazine. I was looking at pictures in a story on the Appalachians when something caused me to look closely at an image of a rustic mountain homestead. There were plants growing on the wall. I’d no idea what they were, but that wasn’t what caught my eye. They were growing in a picture frame. That’s impressive, I thought, I must try that some day.

Fast forward a few years and after figuring out how to do it, I did get around to making the first of many hanging frames fille
d with plants. It wasn’t difficult, just a piece of plywood, preferably pressure treated, with a frame around it, then a piece of wire mesh sandwiched between it and an outer decorative frame. In this case old barnboard left over from the fence. I first made a couple of small ones, about forty by fifty centimetres (15” x 20”), and a later one about twice that size. I soon learned smaller is better as the big one was heavy, something to think about when hanging pictures.

Since it would be hanging on the wall, the plants would have to be something tough enough to survive growing in challenging conditions. I decided on sempervivum — hens and chicks as they’ll grow anywhere with little soil, and the frames would only hold an inch or so. As for soil, regular potting mix was too light and could fall out, so instead I used garden soil that I could squish into the wire mesh. I didn’t hang the frames the moment I’d planted them or the plants would have fallen out. I gave them a whole season to allow them to root securely through the wire mesh.

I don’t leave them hanging on the wall in winter, although the plants are hardy enough. I take them down and simply store them in a sheltered spot, out of driving rain. Even when they’re on the wall, I place them away from the prevailing wind to avoid the soil eroding or the plants washing out in a storm. They do need watering occasionally, but only lightly. I have since tried using other plants. Small sedums work well, and if I had room for them indoors, I could use tender succulents. I once planted one with Scottish moss and it looked like a small piece of lawn. However, it required more care than ones filled with succulents.

I’m obviously not the first to create these living pictures. It could well be the person living in that rustic cottage in the Appalachians or even earlier by the gardener who took care of the hanging gardeners of Babylon. They aren’t difficult to make, and I have done workshops in the past for garden clubs, so they are popping up here and there. I did once see the same concept on sale at a garden show at an exorbitant price for something I knocked together with a few pieces of wood. $300? I could buy at lot of plants for that.

If you use this design to make one, please credit  --  www.davidhobson.ca

The Gruelling Garden

Survival of the fittest. You see that every day in the garden, and not only among plants and bugs. Every spring I barely survive my own enthusiasm. This is the time of year when I'm wishing the snow away and eager to get out into the yard, where the first thing I'll likely do is strain something. I do it every year. At the first opportunity I'm out there poking away at the compost heap to see if it moves. If it does it means the frost is out of it, so I run to the shed and fetch a fork to give it an enthusiastic turning. Then I spend the rest of the week walking funny and cursing the compost heap, when it's really my own fault for letting myself get out of shape.

I do try to stay fit over winter by shovelling snow, but there's only so much to shovel and this year it hardly snowed at all. When this happens I soon start to lose the little bit of muscle tone I have. When there is a lot of snow still around, I'll sometimes haul out Wally, my wheelbarrow, and use him to move it from the pile beside the driveway to the backyard. This way I keep in reasonable shape and at the same time help the garden by extending the snow coverage for my more tender perennials.

Of course, the neighbours aren't too sure what to make of this. Clearing snow off the driveway may be acceptable -- even encouraged, but putting it in a wheelbarrow to move it around the yard does raise a few eyebrows. I know they think I'm nuts, but a fresh lettuce tossed over the fence in summer helps keep down the rumours.

What I don't understand is, the neighbours may roll their eyes at me doing a little honest toil, but they think nothing of someone jogging down the street in the middle of winter wearing pink spandex, shrink-wrapped around too many big Macs. Maybe it's the colour. Maybe I shouldn't wear the yellow ones when I'm getting my workout, even though they match Wally perfectly.

As each year goes by I'm finding harder to stay in shape, so I came up with a great idea. I don't know why I didn't think of it before. This winter I cleaned up the garage and turned it into my very own garden gym. It was easy. I tied a couple of bricks to a shovel, and I hooked up a rake to the wall with a bungee cord. Now I can stand there for hours pretending I'm digging the veggie garden over or raking the lawn.

That's not all. I developed a whole range of exercises to simulate yard work. One of the harder jobs in the yard is pushing a wheelbarrow. I wanted to bring Wally in to wheel around the garage but there isn't enough room. I solved that by substituting a couple of pails for Wally and I carry them back and forth instead. When I get the hang of it I'll put something in the pails instead of pretending Wally's empty.

Another exercise I discovered quite by chance. I was in the gym doing some bungee raking, and hadn't quite got the hang of it. I had the rake pulled to the limit when it slipped out of my hand and boinged around the garage. Dangerous? I'll say. It slapped me in the head a couple of times before raking everything off the shelf where I store all my odds and ends. Two hours of simulated weeding as I cleaned them up was easily as effective, and exciting, as the real thing.

Yes, the garden gym works great; however, being cooped up in the garage without the distractions of nature I've discovered a whole new perspective on what I'm actually doing to myself out there in the yard every spring. After a few weeks of working out I've come to realize how much stress I actually put my poor body through.

No wonder it's always grumbling. I now believe that gardening is just as grueling as any sport. Why, maybe gardening should be in the Olympics. That would be so thrilling. Can you imagine the spine-tingling tension of a topiary competition, or the excitement of competitive weeding? And let's not forget the sheer titillation of questionable garden clothing.

But then I suppose there'd be the usual scandal over the use of illegal growth hormones (that will be a biggie, I'm sure), and we'd have to watch those hokey interviews with the medalists: "I owe it all to my pony, Jenny, for providing me with what it takes to grow healthy plants." Meanwhile the medalists will all be sitting there holding shovels with trademarks showing and wearing shrink-wrapped spandex with the logos of huge fertilizer companies plastered over them.

Maybe not. Maybe I'll skip today's workout and give the compost heap a poke instead -- ooh, ow.

Seed starting for beginners

Can’t wait! Just can’t wait, and I know I’m not alone. My recently arrived seeds are sitting in the refrigerator and I can’t wait to start them. Sure it’s too early for most seeds, but the worst thing that can happen is the plants will take over the house before I’m able to plant them outside . . .

The answer of course is to read the instructions on the seed packets and wait. When it says start four weeks before my last frost (24^th of May, more or less) it means I shouldn’t start them until the 24^th of April — two whole months away. Here are a few tips and reminders.

Propagation Containers:

Anything that can hold a couple of inches of soil and has drainage holes in the bottom will do. For individual containers, use coffee cups — plastic or Styrofoam are fine, and yogurt cups are great too

No need to be fussy about containers as long as they’re clean and have drainage holes in the bottom. It’s also a good idea to poke or slice a few holes in the sides too. It allows for better drainage and lets oxygen get to the roots, which is very important. If you’re recycling last year’s containers, be sure to wash them well to prevent the spread of any fungal diseases.

All containers will need a plastic cover to keep up the humidity level. However, the cover should not be totally airtight and is best removed as soon as germination occurs. If you can match a plastic cake cover up with a pot the same size you’ll have the perfect propagation chambers, or you can slip a large one over a number of individual pots. Plastic stretch-wrap over the pots will also do the trick, but poke a couple of holes in it. Clear plastic produce containers work well.

Soil Mix:

A soil-free mix is an excellent medium for starting seeds, especially if you’re a beginner. These mixes are usually made up of peat moss with vermiculite and perlite added. Regular potting soil is a little too heavy and if not reasonably sterile (potting soil is not actually sterilized) it will allow the dreaded damping off fungi to develop. This is what causes seedlings to keel over and die for no apparent reason. There is a reason: they’ve been attacked at the base of their stalks right at the soil surface. Avoid using garden soil for this same reason.

Once the seedlings begin to grow well, some liquid fertilizer will be necessary, especially with the soil-free mixes, but check the instructions and use at half strength or less. Too strong and there’s a chance the little guys will be burned.

Light:

It’s essential for plant growth, but not for starting all seeds. The seeds of calendula, gazania, delphinium, pansy, verbena, and vinca are typical of those that prefer to be left in the dark until they germinate, but check daily because they will need light as soon as they do pop up. A simple LED grow light fixture suspended about 100cm or so above the seed trays is a perfect light source. Use a timer so that the lights are on for around fourteen hours each day. If you intend growing a large number of seedlings, use a small fan to provide gentle air circulation.

Starting seeds on a window sill is fine, but never in full sun. A container with a clear plastic cover placed in full sun will get hot enough to poach an egg. A south facing window with sheer curtains is as good as you can get.

If seedlings begin to look like giraffes on stilts it means they’re not receiving enough light; likewise if they begin clawing at the window. Rotating the pots will straighten them up. If your windows are poorly located for good light, don’t give up, focus on growing shade loving plants such as impatience.

Don’t forget to move seed trays away from windows in the evening as it will get too cold there. Correct temperature is very important for seed germination. Most seeds, but not all, germinate best at a steady temperature of around 20 - 24C. After germination, the temperature lower.

Watering:

Keep the growing medium for seeds and seedlings moist but not wet. Watering from the bottom up will cut down the risk of damping off disease. Use room temperature water and check at least once daily, because seeds will not germinate if the soil is allowed to dry completely.

Seeds:

Another reason seeds don’t germinate is because they’re planted too deeply. In fact, some seeds need only be scattered on the surface. A tiny seed, germinating too far down, will use up its food store before it ever reaches the light where it can begin making its own food through the process of photosynthesis. Follow the instructions on the seed packet closely. If there are none, or you’ve lost the packet, plant at varying depths as deep as two to four times the size of the seed. This will ensure a degree of success.

There’s lots more to starting seeds, but if you follow these basic instructions you’ll be successful, maybe even too successful. Now, what you should do is clip and save this article until it’s the correct time to start seeds — unless you can’t wait. But just remember, the house can get pretty steamy when it’s brimming with enough tomato plants to attract Campbell’s attention.

DREAMING OF A GREENHOUSE?

 A Beginner’s Guide to Greenhouses

When it’s cool outdoors, I love to walk through an old greenhouse and feel the warmth around me. Slatted wooden benches, a hard-packed dirt floor, rusty heating pipes and, of course, plants all add to the pleasure. Throw in an old chair and a cup of tea and I'm a child again, back in my uncle’s greenhouse watching his tomatoes grow. It's the all-pervading earthiness, combined with nostalgia-inducing fragrances that evoke these feelings. To me, a greenhouse is such a comfortable place to be.

Around this time of year, I begin to think, boy, it sure would be nice to have a greenhouse in my backyard. I do have a small one, but it's just something I knock together in April to hold seedlings prior to planting, little more than a glorified cold frame. So, why don't I have a real greenhouse in my back yard? I'm not sure. Just haven't got around to it, no space available, not cost effective. These are the usual excuses, but they aren't very strong ones.

Making the Commitment

I know I'll be looking closely at all the greenhouses on display at the spring garden shows. I'll also be asking all kinds of questions and carefully considering the pros and cons. After returning home, I might even venture into the garden with a tape measure to size up suitable locations. I do this every year, but somehow the commitment is lacking. Part of the problem is that it's a conundrum. If I use space in the garden for a greenhouse, where would I plant all the extra stuff that I'd be sure to grow in it? I barely have room now.

And so it goes. Maybe you aren’t trouble by indecision and are happily planning for a new greenhouse. If so, here are a few tips to keep in mind.

Basic Guidelines

Look twice at the quality, especially if you get the bug at a garden show. There are high-quality greenhouses on display at reasonable prices. The framework is usually solidly constructed of aluminum with windows of glass or polycarbonate, but I've also seen flimsy plastic frames. These look fine at first glance, but you wouldn't want to be inside one during a wind storm.

Furthermore, consider how you will be using the greenhouse. For instance, if you want to grow orchids or other exotic plants year-round in a cold climate, you will want a substantial greenhouse, so look at double or triple glass or polycarbonate panels and a heating system. If it's only to provide an early start in spring, then a lightweight model may be sufficient. As for size, I haven't met an owner yet who hasn't wished for a greenhouse that was just a little larger. At least ensure the doorway is wide enough to haul stuff in and out with ease.

It's easy to say buy the biggest, but do consider where it will be situated. Out of the way at the bottom of the yard might be the first choice, but unless you like trudging through snowbanks to visit your orchids, the closer to the house the better, provided it will receive plenty of sunlight. Additionally, having a greenhouse close to the house means it will be easier to provide heat, light (if required) and water.

I might wax nostalgic about packed dirt floors, but these really are impractical. Paving stones or gravel are far superior, or better still, install a concrete base. Either way, ensure the greenhouse is anchored to the ground. There’s no point buying one if you're going to donate it to a stranger three blocks away after the first gust of wind.

Additional Considerations

Before signing on the bottom line, think about the extras. How will you heat it? How will you cool it? How will it be ventilated? These are important factors to consider, and they need to be addressed. A greenhouse might produce wonderful, evocative fragrances, and your very own tomatoes in January might prove delicious, but if the cost of growing them is equivalent to a trip to California to pick your own, you might want to hang on to the growing space.

What's in a Name

Experienced gardeners don’t have a problem with horticultural terms, but when someone is fairly new to the pastime, constant use of binomial nomenclature will soon have them throwing the rake and shovel back in the shed and turning to extreme sports as a hobby, maybe alligator wrestling or even bowling.

It doesn’t hurt to pick up a few terms, though, if only to avoid stomping on your best cookware when someone suggests breaking up the hard pan in your backyard. And, you’ll feel much less intimidated around the garden centre when asked if you’d prefer bare root to B and B, which might be misinterpreted as a vague proposition.

Accent Plant — A focal point plant, a plant to catch attention. Principal plant used to anchor a grouping. Usually the one you spent the most money on.

Aerate — Loosening or puncturing the soil to increase water penetration and allow oxygen to reach plant roots. Worms will do a very good job of this if you let them.

Air Layering — A specialized method of plant propagation accomplished by cutting into the bark of the plant to induce new roots to form

Alkaline soil — A soil with a pH higher than 7.0 is an alkaline soil, whereas a soil pH lower than 7.0 is acidic. Many plants have a distinct preference.

B and B — Trees or shrubs that are sold with the roots balled and burlapped as opposed to bare root or potted up.

Bedding plant — Mainly annuals. Quick, colourful flowers, typically used for mass planting in public gardens.

Biennial — A plant that grows the first year, flowers the second, then sets seed and dies — hollyhocks, for instance. However, the flowering sequence of a clump of biennials will eventually overlap and will appear to flower every year as though they were perennials. 

Bolting — Vegetables which quickly go to flower rather than producing the food crop. Usually caused by late planting and excessive heat. Common with lettuce in summer.

Bracts — Modified leaves growing just below a flower. These are often confused with the flower itself. Typical is that red and green Christmas thing.

Cambium — The thin membrane located just beneath surface of stems and beneath the bark on trees. It's where cells originate, producing growth.

Cotyledon — The first set of leaves to grow after a seed has germinated. Use these as handles when it’s time to transplant.

Damping off  — A fungus, and something to think about when you begin starting seeds. It usually affects seedlings and causes the stem to rot off at soil level. Use sterilized potting soil and careful sanitation practices to prevent this.

Dead head — The process of pinching off used or spent blooms to keep plants well groomed and discourage them from setting seed. Promotes continued bloom. Not necessary on plants like impatience, but recommended for regular petunias.

Dibble — A pointed tool used to make holes in the soil for seeds, bulbs, or young plants.

Double flower — Not two flower heads but a flower with many overlapping petals that gives a very full appearance.

Drip line — The line below the tips of the outermost branches of a tree or plant. It’s the place to water the tree, not the branches as I often see being done (okay, maybe he was washing the leaves).

Espalier — The process of training a tree or shrub so its branches grow in a flat pattern against a wall or trellis. Very useful for growing fruit trees in a confined area.

Friable — loose, crumbly soil.

Flat — A shallow box or tray used to start cuttings or seedlings.

Foliar feeding — Spraying foliage with a liquid fertilizer. Better to feed the roots.

Girdling — The choking of a branch by a wire or other material, most often in the stems of woody plants that have been tied to tightly to a stake or support.

Hard pan — The impervious layer of soil or clay lying beneath the topsoil

Heeling in — Temporarily setting a plant into a shallow trench and covering the roots with soil to provide protection until it is ready to be permanently planted.

Herbaceous perennial — A plant with soft rather than woody stems that die to the ground in winter.

Humus — The brown or black organic part of the soil resulting from the partial decay of leaves and other matter (definitely not to be confused with hummus).

Loam — A rich soil consisting of a well- balanced mixture of sand, clay, and decaying organic materials.

Microorganisms — Animals and plants that are too small to be seen clearly with the naked eye but are essential in healthy soil.

Node — The part of a stem from which a leaf or new branch starts to grow.

Pinching back — Using the thumb and forefinger to nip back the very tip of a branch or stem. Pinching promotes branching, and a bushier, fuller plant.

Perennial — A non woody plant which grows and lives for more than two years. Perennials usually produce one flower crop each year, lasting anywhere from a week to a month or longer. Conversely, annuals go from seed to bloom to seed in one season.

Scarify — To scratch or break the hard coat of some seeds, so that they’ll germinate easily. Fine sandpaper or just soaking the seed will do the trick.

Sucker — Growth originating from the rootstock of a grafted plant, rather than the desired part of the plant. Sucker growth should be removed, so that it doesn't draw energy from the plant.

Trug — A shallow basket for light chores, like carrying flowers and fruits and veggies. Traditionally made of wood. Very functional.

Variegated leaf — A green leaf with differently coloured zones in the leaves. Blotched or edged, typical in hostas. 

Xeriscape — This is a name of a landscaping method based using drought tolerant plants in areas with little water.

There you go, just a few words and expressions used to describe things in or around the garden and keep you out of trouble. If you need more, just ask. That’s the easiest way to pick up garden lingo.