Blue, blue, my world is blue

 Blue, blue, my world is blue. No, I’m not feeling down, even if the garden is sleeping. Those words are from a song from way back that has stuck in my head and comes to mind whenever I look at blue flowers. Blue is rare in flowers, true blue, that is. Peer closely and there’s typically a hint of purple in tiny streaks throughout the petals or concentrated near the centre. I call it catalogue blue where the blueness is promoted with a glossy picture that’s as blue as can be.

However, take a step back and blue flowers will look blue enough. It’s a favourite of many gardeners and well sought after. There are many plants with varying shades from the elusive blue poppy to the blue hydrangea, except the former does not do well in the heat and humidity of southern Ontario while the later will keep its pinkness in our alkaline soil. And still gardeners will take on the challenge to grow them.

An easier one is the popular morning glory called ‘Heavenly Blue’ often seen climbing fences, trellises, and sometimes hydro poles. It can each three metres (ten feet) and it puts out fresh flowers daily from summer to fall.

 I do love blue flowers and I have one blooming right now, indoors, and the flowers are as blue as Homer Simpson’s pants — okay maybe not that shade, and they do have the tiniest hint of purple. It’s not the morning glory although it is in the same family, and commonly known as dwarf morning-glory.

The name is Evolvulus alsinoides, and despite being a distant cousin to the more familiar morning glories, it makes no attempt to climb anything but it might trail a little. The plant is a hybrid from Proven Winners called Evolvulus ‘Blue My Mind’, although there are similar plants from different producers with names like ‘Beach Bum Blue’ or ‘Blue Daze’.

 I grew it outdoors in summer in a planter and I liked it so much I brought it indoors for winter where it’s now happily flowering away. Come spring I’ll return it to the garden because it’s a tender perennial sold as an annual, as are many plants. It has to be growing a few zones to the south to stay alive outside through winter.

 Mine didn’t flower as well outdoors as it has in past years because this summer was cooler and wet. That’s not surprising since this plant loves sun and heat but not the cold. In the wild it grows like a weed in a band of tropical and warm temperate regions around the globe, in habitats ranging from marshland to deserts.

Evolvulus is not a large plant, only growing to a few inches high, and outdoors it will do best alone in a planter where it doesn’t have to compete with more vigorous plants. It loves hot sun and when growing well it can survive for a while should someone forget to water it.

The flowers are much the same shape and colour as the heavenly blue morning glory, but they’re much smaller, about the size of a dime or maybe a nickel — remember real money? The leaves are small, too, greyish green and hairy if you look close enough. You’ll see them when you’re peering closely, trying to spot that bit of purple. If I had favourites (oh no, not me), this one would be high on the list.

Blue, blue, my world is blue — rhymes much better than purple. Paul Mauriat’s ‘Love Is Blue’ was fourth in the 1967 Eurovision Song Contest. Darn those ear worms.

Spring is Bouncing About

Finally, I am able to see part of my garden again. Most of the snow has almost left, revealing a very grubby scene. I cleaned up the patio, tidied the shed a little — just enough to be able to get past the doorway. I even did a little pruning when I tentatively approached my climbing rose, snips in hand. We don’t get along. A snip here and there at a couple of wayward canes and I was soon reminded that full combat gear is essential.

Sure, it looks lovely in full bloom, but winter reveals a bad tempered monster fully intent on crushing the arbor. It’s the Jekyll and Hyde of my garden. I have to cut out old, woody branches, plus dead or damaged ones. I try to remove all the weak, stringy shoots, if I can get at them, and I must shorten the healthy ones that are trying to snag my neighbour’s gazebo. The trick is to bend a few healthy canes horizontally to encourage more blooms.

It’s all worthwhile in the end, but it’s rarely a painless process when every thorn is out for blood. They’re only wannabe thorns as technically they’re prickles — outgrowths of the stem surface rather than true thorns. Call em what you like, they’re still nasty, but I’ll forget that come June when the arbor is a mass of pink blooms.

I have other shrubs that need attention and are far less trouble, but I couldn’t get near them until the snow melted. Most shrubs and trees are best pruned while dormant, especially deciduous ones, and right now they’re about to wake up. A little pruning after leaves sprout won’t cause harm, it’s just easier to see what needs trimming — dead, diseased, and wayward branches. They should be cut out, and if the shrub needs shaping at all, now is the time to do it unless it’s a spring flowering shrub.

Here’s the standard reminder: Do not prune spring flowering shrubs until after they’ve finished blooming or you’ll be removing flower buds and it won’t bloom at all.

It’s easy now to check online for pruning requirements of specific plants, but it’s essential to know the species or variety. For instance, I often hear of problems with hydrangeas not blooming. Sometimes it’s due to environmental conditions, but it might just be because someone with a sharp pair of snips and misplaced enthusiasm has lopped off the flower buds.

Mop head, lacecap, and oakleaf species all bloom on old wood, that is, stems that have been on the plant since the previous summer, so prune immediately after blooming (if neccessary), but no later than the end of July.

Paniculata and Annabelle types set flower buds on new growth and can be pruned in fall, winter, or early spring. The so called endless blooming varieties can be pruned almost anytime.

A similar situation exists for clematis. Again, some bloom on old wood, some on new, and some on both old and new, which means there are three different pruning methods. It’s usually noted on the tag, but if that’s long gone, to correctly identify the type, simply observe how and when the flowers appear. 

Fortunately, pruning at the wrong time won’t kill clematis, not when it’s well established. If it’s an out of control, straggly mess and doesn’t flower at all well, it may be worthwhile to have a fresh start by cutting it back severely. This may result in fewer flowers this year but it will recover.

The bottom line for any pruning is 1. Know the plant. 2. Only prune if necessary. 3. Be absolutely sure because you can’t glue branches back on the tree.

Spring arrives with bagpipes playing

 First it was the snow drops, poking through the snow, though hardly a harbinger of spring as they sometimes bloom in January. A little patch of yellow crocus is next to appear, followed by the hellebores. Depending on snow depth, they’re eager to flower as soon as the snow melts.

In my garden I have another plant that’s in the race to announce spring has arrived. It begins to flower even before the crocus or hellebore. It’s Erica carnea, better known as heather or winter heath. When the snow bank beside the driveway first receded back around the middle of March, grubby little specks of colour were already visible, although to the casual observer in the rush from warm car to warm house it could easily have been mistaken for a piece of faded debris.

After a few sunny days and enough rain to rinse off the winter layer of dust and grime, it’s now blooming beautifully. When the weather finally warms up it will be buzzing with pollinators, an early food source for them, same as crocus.

I have two varieties, 'King George', with flowers that open as a pale pink, deepening as the season progresses and 'Springwood white'. By crossing Erica carnea with a related species, Erica Erigena, many cultivars have been developed in shades of pink, purple, and red. These are in a series called darleyensis but the full range is rarely available. I’m happy with the two that I have.

The evergreen leaves of Erica are small and pointy with bronze tips. When in bloom, the leaves are almost hidden by the masses of tiny flowers that last well into May. After flowering is finished, it can be pruned to create a bushier plant, something I’ve never felt the need to do. New flower buds are produced in late summer to early fall.

Now this is not the heather that turns the highlands of Scotland purple each summer, although you could easily pretend that it is. That plant is Calluna vulgaris, known as common heather and it is in the same family.

Calluna grows almost to the height of a swirling kilt on the acidic, peaty soils of Scottish moorland. It also likes more than a wee dram of moisture and there’s no shortage of that in Scotland. As they say there, if you can’t see the hills, it’s raining; if you can see them it’s going to rain, but when the heather is in bloom on a summer’s day, the hills are glorious.

The heather of Scotland is hardy enough to grow here if given the same conditions, however, the soil around Southern Ontario, being mostly neutral on the pH scale, doesn’t suit it. Even though ericaceous, the term used to describe acidic soil, comes from the plant genus, and despite being in the same family as Scottish heather, Erica carnea can tolerate slightly alkaline conditions.

Same as it’s highland cousin, Erica likes its share of moisture, providing the soil drains well, but it doesn’t grow near as high as the Scottish heather. My patches are in full sun and aren’t much higher than an old shag carpet, which makes it an excellent good ground cover that crowds out any competition.

Rated as a zone 5 plant, it is hardy enough, and it’s always done well in my garden, but without the protection of deep snow, would be best covered in winter with evergreen boughs or a coarse mulch. Deer are said to eat it, so I would think rabbits would too, but they haven’t bothered mine. Given the right conditions, heather will look after itself.

When I pause to admire my heather, I swear I can hear bagpipes playing in the distance.

Honeybees are busier than we thought

Did you know that a good part of your honey may have come from insect poop. Yes, you heard that right, and I apologize if you’re drizzling honey on your cereal right now. A study of the DNA in honey carried out by Noah Wilson-Rich, an entomologist who founded The Best Bees Company, revealed that fact and other valuable information. The study sampled urban hives in major cities across the US and the preliminary results are surprising

AnatolianAuthentic Honey

We naturally assume that honey bees are busy collecting nectar and pollen from flowers, and we know they do because we watch them doing it. It’s a biased perception, however, as it’s easy to see the plants that bees are visiting in our gardens. We’ve not been paying attention to what they do at higher altitudes, and that’s one of the major discoveries that was made when the DNA in honey was studied.

The main sources of sugar in the honey tested did not come from wildflowers, but from trees, and not only from the blossoms; it also came from the excretions of sap-sucking insects, particularly aphids, those pesky critters that drive gardeners wild when they find them munching away on plants.

What goes in one end of a hungry aphid is the sap that the plant depends on to grow and flourish. Too many aphids and the plant can die. It’s what comes out of the other end of the aphid that attracts the bees. It’s a sweet, sticky substance called honeydew. Besides nectar from flowers, honeybees are slurping up honeydew, and there’s often plenty of it. We might see only a few aphids on plants in our gardens; up in the treetops there can be tremendous numbers — easy picking for bees, and there’s even more food available when a tree is in bloom, far more than in a garden below.

Whether from nectar or from honeydew, the study determined that 75% of the sugar collected by honeybees came from trees and not from wildflowers, especially in an urban setting. Although more native wildflowers than ever are being introduced into urban gardens to benefit pollinators, there’s often a far wider range than is present in a natural, rural area. In Boston, where interest in urban beekeeping has grown dramatically, the honey sampled contained the DNA of 411 plant species. Because of this larger diversity of plants, the hives there appeared to be healthier and more productive than rural ones.

Another discovery made by the researchers was regarding the types of trees and flowers the honeybees
preferred. Surprisingly, the flowers and trees favoured by them are not necessarily native ones. Honey bees don’t seem to care where lunch comes from. Even though coniferous trees are predominant in Seattle, the bees there favoured non-native linden and cypress trees.

Preferences varied from city to city because of the popularity of particular plants in a specific region. For instance, in New York, where even luxury hotels keep rooftop hives, the top three plants were locust and linden trees, and the flowers of sedum. In Portland, Oregon, known as the city of roses, no surprise that roses were in the top three along with begonias and sweet chestnut trees.

In San Francisco, where non-native eucalyptus trees have become an invasive species, there’s currently a debate going on whether to fell them or give them protection. The honeybees are not fussy. They’re such generalists, they don’t care that the trees are from Australia. They love them. Making up their top three favourites there are pine trees and rosemary.

Next time you hear buzzing in your garden, remember to look up, way up.